We eat bean-and-greens tacos about once a week at home, but because I always have fermented hot sauce or summer salsa hanging around in the refrigerator, I haven’t experimented much with all the peppers I dried last year. When I saw an experimental recipe for dried pepper ferments in the fabulous preservation blog Well Preserved, I remembered that I (1) grew a bunch of Central American chiles this year instead of the Hungarian ones I’ve been growing for years; and (2) dried a bunch of ripe pasillas (which grow very well here, by the way) and other peppers that were languishing in my cupboard.
So red chile sauce it was. Relying on a Diana Kennedy classic recipe, I knew I couldn’t buy fresh tomatoes at this point in the dead of winter, so I used up my last jar of canned tomato sauce, the frozen tomato sauce having been long depleted. Because I wouldn’t be able to char the sauce as I’d char the skin of fresh tomatoes for more flavor, I decided to throw in a pretty little ice-cubed block of tomato paste that I managed to put up last fall. It turns out the tomato paste is crucial for body in the salsa, so don’t omit, even if you’re using fresh tomatoes. If you’re purchasing your tomato products, you might want to buy a can of tomato puree instead of diced tomatoes, because it’s thicker and sweeter.
I was less interested in authentic flavors than in just getting rid of my chiles, so an Ethiopian brown, scorchingly hot beriberi pepper and I’m sure a Hungarian pepper or two snuck in there. You will probably be more discriminating. Also, note that you won’t be able to get the silky smooth texture without a blender, so don’t even try it. A good local bean for the tacos? Brighstone, a hearty pinto-like bean, which is a new discovery by Adaptive Seeds/Open Oak Farm this year.
And if you’re interested in farming, Central America, or how things grow in places involving the word Willamette, you’ll most definitely want to check out our radio show, Food for Thought on KLCC Sunday at noon (PST) on 89.7FM in Eugene, or its sister stations in Oregon, or live on the web. Boris and I are trying something new, an interview with farmer/musician Joshua James, who is performing songs from his new album, From the Top of Willamette Mountain, at Sam Bonds tonight. We’ll also be joined by someone we’ve wanted to have on the show for a long time: Sarah Cantril, Executive Director of Huerto de la Familia, an agriculture and micro-business educational non-profit that teaches community integration, economic self-sufficiency, and organic farming skills to Latino families in Lane County. Listen in or be square!
Red Chile Sauce
- 6-8 medium-sized long dried peppers, such as guajillo, pasilla, or the like
- 1 large garlic clove, sliced
- 1 cup diced tomatoes (top quality fresh or canned)
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 1/2 cup water (optional if your tomatoes are very juicy, or you’re using canned)
- salt to taste
Toast peppers and sliced garlic, being careful not to let the peppers burn. Preheat a cast iron skillet over medium heat, then add the dried peppers and garlic, pressing them down and turning them over every few seconds until the peppers can be crumbled and you can smell the toasted smell.
Remove from heat. Let peppers and garlic cool until easy to handle.
If you are using fresh tomatoes, char the skins over a gas burner or on the same hot cast-iron skillet, then peel off most of the blackened parts, before dicing.
Place tomatoes, tomato paste, and optional water in a blender. Add garlic. Remove stems and seeds from chiles, then crumble pepper shells into blender. Blend for a few minutes on high, until the sauce is very integrated and smooth. Add salt to taste.
Refrigerate and use within a few days on anything that could use a nice kick of red sauce.