dark days #12 – slacker

Just couldn’t do the Dark Days local winter eating challenge this week, I’m afraid.  With the conference in California last weekend and Retrogrouch’s department ski retreat this weekend, plus a backlog of week squeezed in between and during, I had no time to shop or cook, much less seek out the rare, edible, non-moss, winter green in the Willamette Valley.  So let’s consider this my “vacation,” a foodie’s fast food foray into airport food and such:

(I love SFO.)

I came closest with the roasted vegetable and seed lasagna that I made for the ski trip potluck, but even that hardly qualifies, what with its commercially produced pasta, ricotta and parmesan, (already shredded!) mozz, and non-local fennel.  I did manage to use a local delicata squash, hand-harvested bronze and Italian fennelseed, and a jar of my tomato sauce, though.  So maybe I am a half participant.

The tricks to a good lasagna, by the way, are making the tomato sauce as thick as possible before adding it to the pasta, and using plenty of ricotta and sauce. I actually use a bit of paper towel (or bread) to soak up the excess tomato juice on the sides before I put the dish in the oven.

I roasted delicata squash, and a blend of fennel, fennelseed, and the squash seeds the day before making the lasagna, then layered the vegetables in between the pasta sheets.  I thought I had made a tactical error with the roasted squash seeds, but people seemed to like them for their crunch and nuttiness.  Unfortunately, layering the seeds inside the lasagna made them less crunchy and nutty, so I think I’ll just add them to the top next time.

Other news in Eugenialand involves citrus.  The Minneola tangelo crop is good this year, and I’ve been indulging myself with California fruits (what else is new, you might ask).   All I want to do is eat oranges.  I guess it could be worse.  I’d like to do a longer post on another (more local) citrus find — The Rabbit’s delightful clear citrus juice cocktails — but I’ll mention it now for the earlybirds.  Check ‘em out.  Friendly bartenders Amy and Rico, who have taken over the Eugene cocktail scene as the hottest thing in black-and-white, have collaborated with creative chef Gabriel Gil to create perfectly clear citrus juices via some molecular gastronomic magic, and the ensuing cocktails are lovely.

 

survey for Register-Guard features sections

I mentioned a few days ago that our local daily newspaper, The Register-Guard, is running a survey.  If you respond to it by February 11, either in the paper or online via this link, you’ll be entered into a drawing for a $100 gift certificate for Café Zenon.

Let the powers that be know that you want more coverage of local, sustainable food!

Although I’d love to write regularly about food preservation, I can’t promise that I’d be doing that coverage.  But if folks express a demand for articles on local farms and restaurants, and the culinary shift that’s been happening toward eating local, food preservation skills, and reviving old-fashioned traditions, I’m sure that they will increase the space dedicated to these things in the paper.

Thank you!

 

local restaurants helping haiti tonight – don’t miss it!

Passing along this information, courtesy of the Facebook feed of MyEugene.

Five local restaurants are combining their efforts to raise money for Haiti relief efforts.

Today the following restaurants will donate 50 percent of their sales to MercyCorps, makers of the Mercy Kits that benefit earthquake survivors.

* Cafe Soriah – 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

* Cafe Zenon – 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

* Casablanca – 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

* Beppe and Gianni’s – 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

* LaPerla Pizzeria – 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

For more information, contact Ib Hamid at 541.359.0197.

Please consider going out to dinner tonight and helping out with this important effort.  And thanks, Ib and our generous restaurateurs.

 

comfy confit article in the R-G!

Check out my latest article for the Eugene Register-Guard, an exploration of making confit on a budget at home.  It features my faux-confit chicken drummettes (which are a version of the recent NYT less-fat duck confit recipe), my adaptation for chicken drumsticks of Married…with Dinner’s wonderful, authentic duck confit recipe, and a recipe for a delicious, simple salad with shredded duck confit from Brendan Mahaney of Belly. The picture above is my own frisée salad with the faux-confit chicken drums, blue cheese, hazelnuts and pickled beets.

If you get the paper version of the newspaper, please fill out the survey in the Living section to show your support for more local cooking articles!  I’d love to do regular features on food preservation, but without your support, I’m not sure that it’s understood that this is a major trend in local cooking across America. You can also take the survey online, but I don’t have the link right now.  I’ll post it later!

Yum yum!

 

dark days #11: lamb shanks with root veg

Making stew or a very saucy pot roast is the easiest thing in the world.  You brown a couple pounds of meat with an onion, add enough liquid (wine, stock, crushed tomatoes) and a bay leaf or thyme and garlic if you have them, a few grinds of pepper, and then bake on 325 degrees for a few hours.  When the meat is getting tender, after a couple of hours, add salt and a couple of cups of root vegetables.  Before serving, skim off the fat that you see pooled on top in the picture.

It’s so easy, I put one together before I left for my conference this weekend.  This means this week’s Dark Days eating local challenge is not really something I ate, but I consider my husband a good proxy.

We had some lovely local lamb shanks in the freezer, and some not so lovely, gently wrinkling root vegetables in the crisper from a *mumble* ago.  I peeled up the turnip, rutabaga, and parsnip, and added them after the shanks had cooked.  The sauce was made from leftover duck fat/lard from my confit making, a cup of local merlot, and homemade local beef stock (also in the freezer), and a cup of my home-canned tomatoes.  I added thyme that I had dried last summer and frozen bay leaves from my garden, both because I was too lazy to go outside and pick fresh.

If I had been here, I would have made some local polenta to go with, but my husband just ate it plain in his bachelor quarters.  And there are leftovers for tomorrow!

 

happy birthday to culinaria eugenius!

Sometimes I think it might be fun to have kids.  I’ve had two close friends and other acquaintances recently have babies, and while they’re cute, I don’t feel any sparks of envy — or desire — brewing inside me when I look at them.

But when I see a picture like the above, then I think, hey!  This could work!

So until I buy some barrels and old-timey rags for my prospective sauerkraut-making urchins, I will just celebrate the natal anniversary of my own offspring:  Culinaria Eugenius is two!  It’s been such a pleasure to have the forum and reader interest in my little blog the past two years.  I hope to continue many more.  I have some changes in the works for the format of the blog, and even its mission, that won’t take place for some months.  But I’d like to announce, at least, that the blog is going to focus more on preservation techniques, since I’m more and more committed to using local produce and meats year-round.  Stay tuned.

By the way, the picture is one of many collected at the Yellowstone Gateway Museum, a small regional museum currently raising funds to continue the digital archiving project of a huge collection donated by a local photographer, Doris Whithorn.  You can check out or order many images and books, all of which document the area around our first National Park, by clicking here.

 

dark days challenge #10: “foraged” salad with apple, walnut and quince dressing

The foraging was in my backyard!  To balance all the confit I’ve been eating, I had a keen yearning for a serious salad for this week’s Dark Days Challenge meal.  Now, I’m not talking about insipid heads of butter lettuce, or those pointless (sorry, fans) bags of mesclun greens that all taste the same, even though they look to be different species.  I’m talking about salad that bites back.

We had two — TWO!! — sunny days this week, so I did a bit of gardening between deadlines, pruning the cane berries and pulling back the mulch in some areas to allow for little chives and lovage and strawberry babies.  But I was really on the lookout for salad possibilities.  I learned in my Master Gardener training that one can eat our first ubiquitous early spring weed, the little Western bittercress, now making itself known in bare patches of my garden.  I pulled some of the largest ones, then found some tender dandelion greens (the second ubiquitous early spring weed), tore them up, and added them to the mix.

I love eating weeds.  It makes me feel powerful!

But I realized I had cultivated salad greens still in the garden, too.  The arugula is doing wonderfully, all the better for the cold wet weather, so I snipped off some of those leaves for the base of the salad.  I had given up on the plants cozied up to my peas because they were unbearably spicy and hot in summer’s dog days, but they have actually mellowed and become fresher over the course of the winter, weathering our cold snaps with gusto.

And my wild bronze fennel is up in two corners of the yard, sending out gorgeous feathery fronds that are sweet, fresh, and slightly licorice-y, so I sacrificed a few to the salad bowl.

I still have storage apples (Melrose, I believe) in the back from Riverbend Farms, so I added a couple to the salad, plus some delicious new Rogue Creamery cheese, Brutal Blue, and walnuts from Hentze Farm.  The lily still needed to be gilded, clearly, so I melted a couple of tablespoons of frozen homemade quince paste and whisked it into a vinaigrette made of (non-local) olive oil and my accidentally brilliant* Concord grape and star anise vinegar.  Amazing.  It was like eating spring.

* I wanted to make local raisins this year, but I realized too late that one shouldn’t dry tiny Concords (pictured on left) without taking out the seeds, because those seeds are big and hard, and they stick like glue to the dried grape.  So I took the lot, added a whole star anise, and covered everything in white wine vinegar.  Four months later, it’s incredibly delicious — better than the best berry vinegar because of the “foxy” flavor of the Concord grape, with just the right amount of spicy depth from the star anise.  I’ll make this one from now on.

 

confit party

I’ve been teaching myself the ins and outs of confit for the past few weeks.  Sampling it at restaurants, reading the classic preparations in cookbooks, testing recipes.  You’ll see the article soon.

But you won’t see me eating confit again any time soon.  The thought of more deep-fried meat is making me a little queasy.  Could it be I actually overdid it?!

Even the scallops we ate for dinner tonight, delicious, tender, simple scallops, pan fried with a little ponzu and preserved lemon, seemed too…meaty.  Looks like it’s salads for me in the near future.

No, not that kind of salad…Help!

 

dark days challenge #9: frozen mush of summer pasta

Another rough week over here at Culinaria Eugenius.  And since Retrogrouch was away for most of the week, I didn’t really feel like cooking.  One more crazybusy week, then things will be a little better and I’ll be in the kitchen again.  So it was frozen food again for the weekly local dark days challenge.

One of the best, and easiest, recipes for using leftover cherry tomatoes in season is slow roasting them on a low temperature in olive oil, whole cloves of garlic, and fat slices of red onion.  We might even call it Mush Confit.  The stuff cooks down, but generally maintains its tomato-onion-garlic shape, and when frozen in quart-sized Ziploc bags, it can be used throughout the winter for pasta, meat sauces, and even as a spread on baguettes for a quick lunch.

My local meal for the week, therefore, was a chunk of slow-roasted summer vegetables tossed in fresh linguine made here in Eugene, and a bit of olive oil.  I added a scoop of frozen, homemade ajvar (red pepper spread) for a little pizzazz.  Some cream would have been nice, too, or sliced sausage, or some pine nuts and parsley (if I weren’t going local).  But even as is, it was quite good.  Can I tell you how happy I am that froze all the food I did?  I still have frozen fruits, tomato sauce, and a bunch of dried fruits and vegetables stored in the freezer.  Next year, my pledge is for more.

 

let them eat (home-baked) bread

February is bread baking month!  The MFP classes are up and running again, and we have a month full of carbs for those ready to learn to bake your own.  With local and PNW flour available from various sources, now’s the time to let other people eat cake.  To sign up for a class or learn about other future classes, call 682-4246 or 682-7318; a full schedule of classes and registration forms for spring is available on the OSU Extension – Lane County website.  I’ll be volunteering at and taking these classes from local experts, to play with my Christmas present, pictured above.

Word on the street is that Nellie Oehler, former long-time head of the MFP program and everyone’s favorite teacher, will be teaching the Bread Baking Basics class.  Our wonderful baker and teacher Laura Hindrichs (above), whom you may have seen manning the Eugene Farmer’s Market MFP sample booth this summer or teaching one of the many classes last year, will be teaching the others at Food For Lane County.

Did anyone take Laura’s Flatbreads or Artisan classes last year?  I was only able to stay a short while to take some pictures, but the classes looked fabulous.  Let me know if they were!

Bread Baking Basics

• Saturday, February 13, 2010, from 9:30 to 2:30 p.m.
• OSU Extension Service Auditorium, 950 W 13th Ave., Eugene
• Yum, the taste and smell of homemade bread! Come learn the basics of working with yeast breads. Find out how to make a variety of products using a basic yeast bread recipe as your starting point.
• Cost: $30, includes lunch, bread to take home and recipes.

Bread Baking: Flatbreads

• Saturday, February 20, 2010, from 9:30 to 2:30 p.m.
• FOOD for Lane County, 770 Bailey Hill Road, Eugene
• Learn to make various flatbreads like pizza, Turkish, bread sticks, sfincione, crackers and Sardinian music paper bread.
• Cost: $30, includes lunch, bread to take home and samples.

Bread Baking: Simple & Artisan

• Friday, Feb 26, 2010 from 6 to 9 p.m. and Saturday, Feb 27, 9:30 – 2:30 pm.
• FOOD for Lane County, 770 Bailey Hill Road, Eugene
• Learn to bake delicious bread using a variety of techniques and equipment. Breads include: Ciabatta, white sandwich, whole wheat, German rye, no knead boulé and cloud rolls.
• Cost:  $35, includes lunch on Saturday, bread to take home and recipes. This is a two-part class. Participants should plan on attending both classes.